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2008-03-20 Creative Loafing Atlanta Food and Drink Watershed: Down South

When contemplating the role of Southern food and its place in the high-end restaurant world, there are really two ways to go. One is to gussy the food up, to add some of the trappings of fine dining to Southern ingredients and preparations. This is being done with great success around the South, from Frank Stitts Highlands Bar and Grill in Birmingham to restaurants in Charleston, Durham, N. C. , and here in Atlanta at Restaurant Eugene. Watershed goes the other way, presenting Southern food as it has always been cooked and ndash; a few steps up from the meat-and-three, but only in atmosphere, wine list, and quality of raw materials. The problem is that occasionally, the simplicity becomes too simple, and we wonder what were paying for. Watersheds beef stroganoff is just a large bowl of egg noodles with some small bits of

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